a quiet weekend and some planning

This weekend as a whole has been pretty low key. On Friday we celebrated the birthday of Nick, a fellow UNH student who has been here since October. We all went over to Elsa's house where we made dinner (burritos) and had fun. On Saturday, Michelle's host family was away, so we all went over to her house, made pasta and then watched Zombieland.

Sunday followed in the pattern of quiet relaxation for the most part, except for when I spent a bit of the morning looking for an open Pharmacy (by law each city is required to have one emergency Pharmacy open on Sundays) and then spent time waiting in line to buy the French equivalent of Advil (neurofen for anyone that's interested).

I then went for a walk with my host father and Pascal, the Swiss exchange student who is staying with my host family for two weeks, at Lac Kir an artificial lake on the edge of Dijon. It was very lovely and I can imagine it being even more so in the spring when everything is in bloom and all of the trees are filled with leaves. I was quite happy to see my first French mallards! I can't say why but for some reason mallards (of any nationality) always make me happy. When I first went to Switzerland I was pleased (perhaps a little too much) to see them in another country, and it follows in France.

The trail, which follows an old river, to Lac Kir

There were also some swans, but after being bitten by one at age 8, the only capacity in which I like them is in relation to the ballet (which I adore).

The weekend did give me (and the others) some time to work on planning trips. We have a two week long break in April in which we plan to visit the Netherlands, Austria (Vienna to be specific), Italy and potentially Prague. Initially we hoped to visit Ireland but we're on a tight budget and finding inexpensive trains and planes has been a little difficult.

Tonight is my dinner with my host family and I've already been told that tonight's menu will be escargots! It's quite exciting and I'll be sure to post pictures of it as well as my opinion on them.

Lastly, on a note related to photography, I wrote here in my first post that I wanted to take one photo every day as a way to record my time in France, but also as a way of consciously working to improve my photography. I have posted at least one photo for every day, but will not post one for this past Saturday. I did take some photos but I didn't like any of them. While not every photo I have posted has been one I absolutely loved, I have made a conscious effort to post photos that I was at the very least satisfied with. Not every day and photo can be the best, and I will still take a photo ever day, but from time to time there might not be any posted photos of the day.

classes finally!

It is with great pleasure that I can finally say that I know what classes I will be taking this semester. It was very weird to be in a position where I not only did not know what classes I would be taking but also not knowing when they would be.

On Monday we took a placement test which mostly tested our knowledge of grammar, written expression and comprehension. Yesterday (Friday) we found out the results. There are 6 levels of French at CIEF ranging from beginner to intermediate to advanced, with the last being mastery, and I found out that I was in 5 which was a level higher than I thought I would be and therefore immensely pleases me. 

Practically it means that I'll be a lot busier than my fellow UNH students. I have 6 French language classes, each of which is 2 hours long, a 3 hour French Civilization course and then as much as 8 hours of culture classes a week. When totaling the possible hours (23) it's quite daunting but nevertheless I'm quite excited. If I have six hours of class a week where I specifically work on my French, I'm quite sure that by the time June rolls around I'll be at the very least competent!

The Place Wilson (where I live) kiosque at night.

The 6 French classes I will be taking are:

1. Expression techniques
2. Oral Expression
3. Written Expression
4. Oral Comprehension
5. Written Comprehension
6. Grammar

The culture classes that I am interested in taking. I may take all of the culture classes but at the end of the semester can choose three classes that I will take exams for. Each of these classes only takes place every two weeks, so while it looks like a lot of different subjects, I'd only be really taking three culture classes this semester.

1. Contemporary French History - Social and cultural history of France after 1945 to the present
2. Political Panorama - France in Europe and the world in the 20th century
3. Art History - Art from 1910 to 1970
4. Literature - French literature in the 20th century
5. Philosophy - pretty self explanatory...I'm not convinced on this one
6. The vine and the wine

Lastly, despite the fact that I'll have quite a load I do get Mondays off which is most important because it means I'll get three day weekends and an extra day to travel on the weekends. Immediately it means that the bus strike on Monday won't effect me because I won't have to take the bus!

Les Hospices de Beaune

On Monday, I took my placement test for CIEF. At the beginning of the test our professors stressed that it was a test and not an exam and that it would not reflect on future grades but rather place us in a class that would best fit where we were in the French language. I won't know my result until Friday but I'm guessing that the newer CIEF students (myself included) are spread across the spectrum of those who are beginning French and those who are working on mastering it. I'm somewhere in the middle but where exactly I will see. I had been told that the test would be both oral and written, but it was just written and that made it a bit easier to take. 

The test was the only real excitement of the day for Monday. We had a some CIEF information sessions but most of the information we already knew. I did learn that the name for old Bourguignonne houses such as the one in this photo are called les maison à colombages. I'd been calling them medieval style houses before, so I was glad to have an official name for them. 

Elsa, our tutor (and a very excellent one), but also a great friend and a  hilarious person with an infectious laugh. Kevin, the Englishman we met Monday through CIEF is photo-bombing in the background.

Monday (and Sunday) I was also able to have a meal with my host family that did not count as my meal of the week as because of the wedding on Saturday, there was a lot of extra food that needed to be eaten. I was all too happy to eat it without charge!

Yesterday was much more exciting as we visited Beaune. Our Professor Stephane who leads excursions was our guide and spent a bit of time telling us the history of the region, the significance of certain areas. He noted that while Dijon was the capital of Burgundy, Beaune was the capital of wine in Burgundy. He also explained a little bit (and with some bias out of loyalty) the differences between wine of Burgundy and that of Bordeaux. The most notable difference is that though the wine is all grown on the same soil in Burgundy there are many different methods for making wine and because of this every Burgundian wine is different and some are inferior to others. At one point on the way to Beaune we stopped in the fields where Romanée Conti is made. The wine in particular is the most expensive wine made in all of France selling for as much as $8,000 dollars. However; in order to buy one bottle one must buy five other bottles of other "grands vins" which are the best wines of a certain area. The total cost can be over $45,000!

These crests mark the grands vins which are named the best wines of a particular year.

Stephane also explained a little bit (and then I did some research) the phylloxera epidemic which was an incredibly severe wine blight that wiped out virtually all vineyards in Europe. The blight itself took place during the mid 19th century (1800s) and is thought to have been such a massive epidemic because of the advent of steam-powered ships which allowed the pest to travel from North America, where it originated, to Europe. After the blight, it was proposed that European vines would be grafted with North American vines which were resistant to phylloxera. Many French wine growers were opposed to this idea but really had no other choice. As we traveled by bus to Beaune and saw vineyards that seemed to stretch to the horizon, it seemed quite clear that the French wine industry was not just safe but probably thriving.

Our destination of the day, was of course, Beaune which is best known for Les Hospices de Beaune. Les Hospices originated during the 100 years wars (historical reference point: Jeanne d'Arc) as a hospital for the poor. Instead of just creating a plain hospital, the Chancellor of Burgundy (Nicholas Rolin) built the incredibly beautiful hospital that is Les Hospices de Beaune as an act of philanthropy so that the poor could live like kings. From the outside the building actually appears plain, which was a ploy to ensure that it would not be looted for its apparent wealth. On the inside; however, the roofs are made of the beautiful glazed tiles that are a landmark of Burgundy architecture.

As a group numbering 50 we were without a doubt as touristy as you can get.

When we entered Les Hospices it was the afternoon and so the sun was shining on the roofs opposite the beautiful tiled ones. Without the sun they are interesting to the eye but not exactly astounding and alas I don't have many good pictures. 

I should note that in continuation of the philanthropic essence of Les Hospices, Beaune hosts an annual wine auction wherein all the proceeds go to the poor.

A polyptych of the Las Judgment on wood (oak) with oil paint. The original was
actually painted over because of the scandal the nudes caused on the bottom.
The  painted on clothes were done with inferior paint and they were actually
accidentally washed off leaving the superior original behind.

Beaune itself was a lovely town, but we didn't get much of a chance to really discover it and there is still much that I would have liked to see (such as the wine caves). It's still only my third week in France though, so I've got plenty of time to see much more. On the bus-ride there several of us noted that we'd have to rent bikes and come back towards Beaune just to ride past the vineyards which must be beautiful in the spring.

a huge french family and delicious crêpes

Yesterday was a pretty hectic day in the apartment of my host family. One of their sons was getting married and as a result all of their other sons, their wives and their children were here. For a little bit in the morning I was afraid to leave the room. It felt weird being somewhere that was clearly the heart of the wedding, particularly when I didn't know anyone. When I finally emerged people said hello to me and were nice, but it still felt strange, as if I was intruding on something very private.

First letters to be sent to the USA.

Upon getting to the kitchen Madame said hello to me in English and then I said "Bonjour" back to her. She seemed pleased that I preferred to greet her in French and then noted that since arriving my French has improved a bit and that she'll have to start using more complicated words with me! It was a nice moment. I'm not sure if my French itself has improved or if I'm less nervous about speaking to actual French people and that because of it I'm able to form sentences much more rapidly and also able to correct myself. Who knows, either way, it was nice to hear.

When I left the apartment the family was taking pictures. A fellow UNH friend noted that I should have taken pictures as the family was dressed to the nines (coat-tails and fancy hats) but I didn't because it would have felt strange. I've only known my host parents for two weeks and I've only seen their children briefly. It was also their moment. Regardless, I took no pictures.

Dijon itself was quite warm out yesterday and it was nice to stroll without having to worry about the wind or the cold. I love walking through the old streets because of how they wind but also because I love the almost medieval architecture. The whole feel of Dijon is so different from the states that just walking in is an experience in itself. In walking around Amy and I discovered a crêperie that we decided we would definitely have to come back to. After browsing in a fnac (sort of like a Best Buy and Barnes and Noble mashed together) later that day with Sean (the only man amongst all of the UNH girls) and looking at cookbooks that made us quite hungry, we decided that we would simply have to eat that crêperie tonight. 

We arrived before it opened and so we waited a bit, but this turned out to be quite good because by the time we got our drinks all of the other tables were reserved. There are two kinds of crêpes: sweet and savory. The sweet are probably best known, but the savory (called galettes which should not be confused with the cake of the same name) are just as delicious. I ordered a fromagere which was filled with potatoes, Camembert, goat cheese and cream. It was delicious, as was expected, and we all decided that we'd be going back to the restaurant multiple times because there were quite a few items on the menu that looked delicious to drink.

As for today, seeing as how it is Sunday, I stayed inside. I bought stuff to make a sandwich but because of the wedding there was plenty of food to eat and I ended up dining with my host family (and their children). I tried to follow along with what they were saying but they all talked so rapidly and with slight abbreviations that it was just about impossible to understand. To make it even more difficult several of them would talk at once (often to each other - though not as if they were fighting). At one point one of the wives asked if I could understand them and I shook my head and said they talked too fast. Others tried to get me to eat more, although there was so much food, I simply couldn't. 

a day I can't describe

In some of the past few posts I wrote that I was longing for some structure, for a schedule that laid out things I had to do. Well, yesterday was Orientation for all International Students and it was as structured as a day could possibly get. From 9h to 22h (10PM) there was something planned for us to do and it was exhausting.

We started out with a little bit of breakfast in the Maison de l'Universitaire which was nice and a good way to meet some of the other students (there are 11 different nationalities represented in the International Students, from Americans to Germans to Romanians).

They then separated us into two different groups (with red and blue name tags to differentiate who was with who) and proceeded to take us on a tour of the campus. Unlike guides at American colleges, ours said things with soft voice which made a good amount of the information hard to hear. In addition we stopped in strange places like the large scupltures around campus where we were then lectured on who made the art, what it meant and why it was at the University. Art is often beautiful and fascinating but when I'm having an Orientation at a University, I don't necessarily want to hear about it unless it's relevant to what I'll be learning and the places I have to know.

After the tour we finally got to eat lunch at one of the University Restaurants. The food was OK, but I think I've been spoiled with UNH dining (which even though I get tired of, is still rated as one of the best in the US as far as college food goes). One thing I don't really understand about the food is that there's a strong emphasis on carbohydrates and meat and less on vegetables and fruit. For 3 euros, I will say that it's still a pretty good deal.

Mirela and Laura

When lunch was finished we returned to the Maison de l'Universitaire where we listened to a Professor and then some students give us some information on life at the University of Burgundy and also on life in Dijon. Unfortunately the information was nothing new for us five from UNH as we'd already heard it back at UNH and from Elsa. As for the other students, I think the information was new and quite helpful. After talking with some we learned that most of them had not yet ventured into the city. Due to the fact that we're living with families, discovering the city is incredibly easy, but for those that live on campus and who don't have bus passes, I can imagine how difficult it might be to get around the city which was why the tour of the center of Dijon was probably very informative and exciting for them. For those of us that have been here for a week and a half? Not so much.

The day was rounded out with apertifs in the Palace des Ducs. We drank crème de cassis (which I now know is called "kir") and talked with the other international students. I personally talked with two people: Laura, a German who reminds me a lot of Luna Lovegood, and Mirela, a Romanian. They both spoke French better than me but were also able to speak English as well making them both trilingual but also incredibly nice and willing to help me out when I couldn't figure out how to express myself in French. In all, meeting some other international students was probably the highlight of a very hectic and extremely tiring day.

Lastly, I can't forget to mention that after apertifs we returned to the campus where instead of eating we were forced to dance. When I say dance, I mean line dancing, the sort of dancing that featured heavily at camp square dances (but less fun, with bad country music and with no opt out option). At first it was just confusing and slightly amusing, but when the dancing went on for over an hour with no reprieve in sight it got to just be ridiculous and exhausting when all we wanted to do was sit down and eat!

museums and some cuisine

After finally getting my University ID and buying a Culture Card (which gives discounts on everything from movies to opera) I am nearly done with all the paperwork and bureaucracy that goes along with staying in France for over 3 months. Yesterday we attempted to go to the Immigration Office to hand in our residency form. The first half was filled out in the US, stamped by the consulate and then stapled into our passports. The second half had to be filled out in France. We thought we could simply bring it to the Immigration Office but it turns out that they must be mailed in with copies of both visa and passport. How silly we were to think it would be that simple.

Our dinner table. We keep our napkins in little pouches.

After sending it in we will then receive a letter in a mail stating a time in which we can make an appointment for a medical exam. All this just to say "Hello, we arrived safely in France!". Honestly. Due to the fact that the Residency Form was important, we had the French Postal Service insure them. This naturally cost 4 euros. 

Apart from that one difficulty, I've found that most of my IDs that give me discounts and even my University ID are too large for my wallet. Printer paper is even slightly taller in France then in the US. I guess the French are just not an 8.5 by 11 people. 

A peak at the streets from the top of the Rue de la Liberté, with some added
grain on the advice of my dad.

On Tuesday I had dinner with my host family. We had salad (just lettuce) with some mustard-base dressing, a quiche, potatoes, bread and cheese and then oranges for dinner. Everything was delicious. My host mother bought me a little packet of soft French cheeses each of which was a different type. I had "les noix" which was cheese with a little bit of hazelnut in it. It was quite lovely.

On Wednesday we got the previously mentioned IDs and attempted to go to the Immigration Office. We also started a bit of the chouette trail and attempted to eat out at an inexpensive restaurant. Unfortunately the restaurant closed at 8PM (20h) which didn't give us a lot of time to eat slowly and talk. Instead we found a kebab shop. Kebabs aren't a very American thing, but they're everywhere in Europe. I feel like it's almost equivalent to a burger (in that they're everywhere) but connected to the Middle-East and even Asia. They were surprisingly filling and the owners of the kebab shop were incredibly nice to us.

Today we got breakfast at a cafe and I had an amazing grilled cheese sandwich. Where my grilled cheese at home just has cheese inside, this one had more cheese on top and also ham on the inside. The French call it a "croque monsieur". There is also a "croque madame" which has egg added to it. I also got my favorite cold drink in Europe: limonade which is part lemonade but also part carbonated and which I really enjoy. 

We then went to the Musée de Beaux-arts which, I'm pretty sure resides in part of the Palace des Ducs. We were actually there while they were putting in a few exhibits and re-painting the windows. I always find it extraordinary to be in a museum that is in itself in a building so decorated and old that it's a museum in its own right. The museum itself was focused solely on French art, in particular that of Burgundy which has had a rich history of art because it's rulers (the Dukes of Burgundy) were at one time more powerful than the Kings of France. The first floor (which is actually the second) was filled mainly with massive oil paintings but the second and third floors were modern art. 

After the museum we went and got crepes and then hot chocolate (which I will still never ever tire of). Tomorrow is orientation for International Students! Hopefully it won't be an overload of information. 

strangely enough, I long for structure

Just as I had  been informed, absolutely nothing happens in France on Sunday. If you're a Catholic (which I am not, but my host family is) there is mass, but other than that? Not much. I was quite prepared to read all day long and start some research on where to travel on weekends, but my host father decided to show me the Musée de la vie Bourguignonne. It was a short walk from where I'm living and like most museums in France, it's free and open to the public. Museums are strangely not open on Tuesdays but some of them are on Sundays. I don't quite understand the logic of it, but then again, my first week in France has proved that there is a lot that makes absolutely no sense.

The museum itself reminded me a lot of the Shelburne Museum in Vermont (which to date is my favorite museum). It isn't necessarily a museum that is a collection of different buildings - each of which is a different sort of exhibit - but it does show quite marvelously what life was like for the people of Burgundy generations ago. I also gathered that my host father knew quite a lot about the museum and perhaps about the history of Burgundy because he explained every exhibit to me. It was very nice of him, and I didn't expect it at all.

Even though the museum was quite interesting, I got tired of it after a while. The exhibits weren't less interesting, it's just that museums can become mind-numbing after a while. We didn't go through the entire museum though, so that'll have to be saved for another day.

Due to the fact that nothing is open on Sundays, my host family allowed me to store a little bit of food in the refrigerator. I bought myself a baguette and then some chicken  (deli style unfortunately, but you do what you must) and my host parents let me use some of their mustard so that I could have one sandwich for lunch and then another (this time on toasted baguette!) for dinner. I was glad I didn't have any trouble eating but I long to make a bit of pasta or have a grilled cheese sandwich and unfortunately I don't think that's a possibility.

On Monday we attempted to get our University IDs but found there was more paperwork to fill out. I had all the extra paper-work they needed there, but unfortunately we had to schedule an appointment to give the paperwork and to get the IDs. It's another lesson in French Bureaucracy, but one I'm beginning to just accept.

Lastly, I really want classes to start, or at least for activities organized by CIEF to start because while wandering is nice, the structure of classes or an activity would be greatly appreciated.